Thursday, September 26, 2024

Labyrinth: a very short review

I happened to take a vacation to France, and I was looking for a book to take on the trip. I ended up picking several books, and then the first of those books that I actually started reading was Labyrinth by Kate Mosse.

Mosse's book is 500 pages of summer vacation escapist fun.

And it fit quite nicely into my vacation beause it's set in southern France; more specifically it's set in the region of Occitania. Although my particular trip was to the regions of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes and Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, these are all adjacent regions and so it's close enough to be enjoyably topical to my trip.

Also, the book uses a simple but effective technique of telling two related stories, one set in 12th century Occitania and the other set in current-day Occitania. And since my trip was full of Bryan Goes Walking Around in Modern Towns Which Have Well-Preserved Medieval Old Town Areas, the book was really a good match.

There's not a lot more to say about Labyrinth. It's romantic historic fiction, with lots of lords and ladies and roughly realistic historical depictions. So I enjoyed it and it made my own wanderings considerably more fun.

Plus I learned a few things, such as what Languedoc means as a place name, and such not. Which was fun too!

Labyrinth is apparently the first book in a trilogy. I'm not sure I actually enjoyed it that much, but who knows?

Friday, August 30, 2024

Bummer that AnandTech shut down

I didn't visit AnandTech very often, but when I did, I found high-quality carefully written material. It seemed to have sustained that high quality information for a good long time, which is rare these days.

Editor Ryan Smith sums up the three decades.

I love the 1998 picture of Anand Lal Shimpi reviewing a motherboard!

Smith makes a good point about the challenge of finding high quality technical material nowadays:

A core belief that Anand and I have held dear for years, and is still on our About page to this day, is AnandTech’s rebuke of sensationalism, link baiting, and the path to shallow 10-o'clock-news reporting. It has been our mission over the past 27 years to inform and educate our readers by providing high-quality content – and while we’re no longer going to be able to fulfill that role, the need for quality, in-depth reporting has not changed. If anything, the need has increased as social media and changing advertising landscapes have made shallow, sensationalistic reporting all the more lucrative.

Sunday, August 25, 2024

Among the Thugs: a very short review

Nearly 50 years ago, in 1977, a young American writer named Bill Buford found himself in graduate school at King's College, Cambridge, studying English.

Within barely 18 months, Buford and a fellow student had successfully re-launched the university's 100-year-old student literary magazine, Granta. Only a few years later it was already thriving, and Buford's writing and editing career was taking off. He would later become an editor at the New Yorker and find enormous success.

In 1977, however, Buford was still young, in his late 20's, and for whatever reason he became interested in the world beyond the library. As he tells the story, he had a startling and confusing encounter while taking the train home to Cambridge from Wales:

The train was a football special, and it had been taken over by supporters. [...]

I changed trains four times; three were taken over by supportes. One was torn apart: the seats had been ripped out, and the bar, which had been closed beforehand, was broken up, its metal shutter door split into pieces and drink handed out to anyone who walked past. I did not know what was more surprising, the destructiveness, which was gratuitious and relentless, or that, with so many police, no one seemed able to stop it: it just went on.

Buford realizes that he has much to learn, but more relevantly and surprisingly, he realizes that he has much that he actually wants to learn.

I thought I'd go on my own. I didn't know that it wasn't done, that lads went with lads or that lads went with dads, but there was so much I didn't know -- which was the point. I wanted to find out what I didn't know; I wanted to meet one of "them" and didn't know any other way to go about it.

He tries, and tries again. He attends match after match, choosing teams and locations almost at random. He goes up to fan after fan, supporter after supporter, and tries to get them to talk about what is happening. Time after time they refuse him and shun him. Yet he is stubborn, and doesn't give up.

while I couldn't say that I had developed a rapport with any one of "them" yet, I did find that I was developing a taste for the game. I had figured out how to stand on the terraces and watch the play on the pitch -- an achievement of sorts. In fact I was also starting to enjoy the conditions of the terraces themselves. This, I admit, surprised me. This, it would seem, was neither natural nor logical. It was, I see now on reflection, not unlike alcohol or tobacco: disgusting, at first; pleasurable, with effort; addictive, over time. And perhaps, in the end, a little self-destroying.

More than a little, as we are soon to find out: much, much more than a little self-destroying.

The paperback edition of Among the Thugs has a black-and-white picture of young Bill Buford on the cover, presumably from his days with the lads. His head is shaved and his heavy-lidded eyes stare you down; a lit cigarette rests in the corner of his mouth.

It's an amazing picture; it's hard to look away from it.

It's certainly not the picture you'd expect to see of a graduate student at Cambridge University.

After Buford sets the stage, the rest of Among the Thugs has a definite structure, as Buford jumps around between three different sorts of segments:

  1. He gives some historical background, covering well-known events such as: Burnden Park, 1946; Ibrox Park, 1971; Heysel Stadium, 1985; Hillsborough Stadium 1989; and others, some of them 100+ years ago.

    In these segments, in addition to the historical background, he appears to be trying to connect the dots, sometimes more successfully than others.

  2. He tells stories of events that he, personally, witnessed, including: Juventus v Manchester United, 1984, in Turin; several Manchester United matches in London in the mid 1980's, at Tottenham, at Chelsea, at West Ham; and finally a detailed report of the 1990 England v Holland World Cup match in Cagliari, Sardinia.

    Buford notes that he went to dozens of football matches while researching and writing the book, but he chooses to tell just a handful of stories.

    However, he tells them extremely well. By "well", I mean that he relates what happened vividly and chooses events that explain the things that he is trying to explain. He goes into extensive detail; there is a thorough narrative. But more importantly, he is honest. By "honest," I mean that Buford includes his own thoughts and his personal feelings, and also I mean that he doesn't shy away from admitting his own culpability in what happened.

  3. Interspersed amidst these various sections, Buford also includes some more abstract observations about mobs, about crowd mentality, about identity politics, about desensitization of violence. In these segments he includes his own thoughts as well as surveying those writers who have tried to discuss these topics in the past.

The vivid descriptions of Buford's own first hand experiences "among the thugs" are far and away the most powerful parts of the book. I don't want to reproduce them here, however; if you want to know more you should go read the book yourself.

In the end, these parts of the book are the "what", not the "why".

The observations that Buford makes as a result of these experiences, while they cannot fully explain the why, are certainly the most important parts of Among the Thugs, and are the reason that it's still worth reading, forty years later. English football hooligans have certain essential elements that are somehow universal in humans. Lynch mobs occur everywhere; xenophobia seems almost omnipresent in human behavior.

Buford is interested in what people get out of it. For one thing, he finds, there is a sense of belonging, of joining a club, of finding a community:

"For most lads," Mark was saying, "this is all they've got." He nodded, as we were walking out of the door, towards a cluster of supporters whose common feature was, I must admit, a look of incredible and possibly even unique stupidity.

"During the week," Mark continued, "they're nobody, aren't they? But then, when they come to the match, that all changes. They feel like Mr. Big."

[...]

"It was us against them, and we had no idea what was going to happen. There were so many different feelings. Fear, anger, excitement. I've never felt anything like it. We all felt it and everyone of us now knows that we have been through something important -- something solid. After an experience like that, we're not going to split up. We'll never split up. We'll be mates for life.

"I will never forget these blokes. I will never forget Sammy. For as long as I live, I will be grateful that I could say I knew him."

[...]

Mark was still explaining. "You see, what it does is this: it gives violence a purpose. It makes us somebody. Because we're not doing it for ourselves. We're doing it for something greater -- for us. The violence is for the lads."

At one point, Buford meets up with some of the leaders of the National Front, trying to understand their connection with the football hooligans:

I am sure that Ian Anderson was right when he said that the football stadium was his ideal recruiting ground, but he would also have known that it provided a special kind of member, one already experienced, if not trained, in how to become part of a crowd, sometimes a violent one, even if it was not politically directed. And he would also have known that the crowd is a revolutionary party's most powerful weapon. On paper, it would have seemed so straightforward, and so many of the National Front's activities -- its discos, its marches, its propaganda -- were designed to create the crowd among its members and then make it political. But it isn't straightforward, and in the end the young, well-dressed executives of the National Front were not very good at their task -- they were there to lead, but few were following. But, although incompetent, they were not ignorant. The understood something about the workings of the crowd; they respected it. They knew that its potential -- its rare, raw, uncontrollable power -- was in all of us, even if it was so persistently elusive.

One of the things that Buford is most fascinated by is the topic of how a group of individuals stop acting as individuals, and become instead a mob. And, having done so, how they somehow seem to stop thinking, and just start doing, and then soon they are doing the unthinkable.

I am attracted to the moment when consciousness ceases: the moments of survival, of animal intensity, of violence, when there is no multiplicity, no potential for different levels of thought: there is only one -- the present in its absoluteness.

Violence is one of the most intensely lived experiences and, for those capable of giving themselves over to it, is one of the most intense pleasures. There on the streets of Fulham, I felt, as the group passed over its metaphorical cliff, that I had literally become weightless. I had abandoned gravity, was greater than it. I felt myself to be hovering above muyself, capable of perceiving everything in slow motion and overwhelming detail. I realized later that I was on a druggy high, in a state of adrenaline euphoria. And for the first time I am able to understand the words they use to describe it. That crowd violence was their drug.

Buford's conclusion is, finally, that we have met the enemy and he is us.

It is not the case that the violence is either a deviation or a continuation, but that it is both deviation and continuation. It is not: either ... or ... . But: both ... and ... and ... and ... .

I believe in the modern behavioral models of our conduct, and much of this book has set out to prove their validity: that the crowd is in all of us. It isn't an instinct or a need -- being in a crowd isn't necessary to our being complete human beings -- but, for most of us, the crowd holds out certain essential attractions. It is, like an appetite, something in which dark satisfactions can be found.

Among the Thugs is truly bleak. But it is simultaneously truly important, for Buford has looked deeply into the darkness and come away with the knowledge that it is important, and ever-present. To know this is to know that you have to always be aware of the possibility, and be ever alert.

Saturday, August 17, 2024

The University of Chicago: verifying the Hubble constant since 1929

From New Webb Telescope data suggests our model of the universe may hold up after all , we read:

Freedman and her colleagues used the telescope to make measurements of ten nearby galaxies that provide a foundation for the measurement of the universe’s expansion rate.

To cross-check their results, they used three independent methods. The first uses a type of star known as a Cepheid variable star, which varies predictably in its brightness over time. The second method is known as the “Tip of the Red Giant Branch,” and uses the fact that low-mass stars reach a fixed upper limit to their brightnesses. The third, and newest, method employs a type of star called carbon stars, which have consistent colors and brightnesses in the near-infrared spectrum of light. The new analysis is the first to use all three methods simultaneously, within the same galaxies.

I feel like Tip of the Red Giant Branch would be an interesting place to go kayaking.

Sunday, August 4, 2024

Backpacking 2024: Hoover Wilderness, Green River canyon, East Lake

THe Hoover Wilderness is one of our favorite backpacking destinations. It's located in the Eastern Sierra, sitting like a Scottish tam hat on the northeast edge of Yosemite National Park. In previous years, we've hiked from the Leavitt Meadows trailhead at the far north end of the Hoover Wilderness, and some twenty years ago we hiked up to the Robinson Lakes from the Twin Lakes trailhead.

This year, we decided to try the Green River trailhead.

And Dan was able to join us!

The two-volume Sierra South and Sierra North books from Kathey Morey and Mike White, now in their, what, thousandth edition, are the definitive source of information about backpacking in California's Sierra Nevada mountains. I own at least three versions of these books, and they are endlessly useful. They're now over 50 years old; the first editions came out in the mid 1960's!! My 9th edition copies, now 20 years old, are dog-eared and coffee-stained, but they continue to be the essential information about where to go and what to expect.

Here's how Sierra North describes the East Lake trip from the Green River Trailhead in the Hoover Wilderness:

This is a fine beginner's weekend hike. East Lake's scenery includes three colorful peaks, Gabbro, Page, and Epidote, each of which are composed of rocks varying in hue from vermillion reds to ochre, and set in metavolcanic blacks for contrast. Nearby Nutter, Gilman, and Hoover lakes offer good fishing to supplement the angling in East Lake, and the wide-ranging scenery along the way rivals any found on longer backpack trips.

I can confirm the truth of the second and third sentences.

And bonus points to Sierra North for managing to use vermillion, ochre, and metavolcanic in a single sentence.

But, I must protest that first sentence. A beginner's weekend hike this is not.

The distance wasn't that long; it was four miles from the trailhead to our campsite at the far end of East Lake. But the elevation was substantial: the trailhead is at eight thousand feet, East Lake is at nine thousand six hundred feet, and the trail, which follows the Green River canyon, ascends and descends several hundred feet at a time in places where the river dips around a cross canyon or encounters a sheer face that the trail must circumvent. All told, we climbed close to two thousand vertical feet on our way in (and came back down that much on our way out).

More challenging, though, were the numerous river crossings. There are about six substantial river crossings between the trailhead and East Lake, each with the typical hazards such as slippery rocks, fast current, decaying tree branches, and uncertain footing. It's one thing to spring across a river crossing carrying little more than a camera and a water bottle; it's another thing entirely to cross one with a full pack, tired after hours on the trail, and light-headed from the low oxygen levels found at nine thousand feet.

But the result was worth it! East Lake is just as beautiful as the guidebooks suggested, the weather was glorious, and we enjoyed every minute wandering through the forest and admiring the vistas.

We had our share of adventure! Dan's old boots proved not up to the task, and after only a few miles he decided to be wise and head home before the torn footgear became nothing but fabric shreds. And Rich's tennis elbow flared up, giving him such stabbing pain from shoulder to wrist that he could no longer heft his pack, and he too departed early. Roger and Chris and I enjoyed an eight mile round trip day hike from East Lake past Nutter Lake, Gilman Lake, the two Hoover Lakes, and up at last to Summit Lake, which sits at ten thousand two hundred feet atop the crest of Green River canyon and drains down into Yosemite National Park to the west.

Exhausted but happy, we returned home, pleased once more by the stark and majestic beauty of the Eastern Sierras.

Saturday, July 27, 2024

Nice local article on the Posey Tube

A reporter for The Oaklandside takes a walking trip with the Oakland Heritage Alliance: Touring the Posey Tube, a 100-year-old engineering feat connecting Oakland and Alameda

Engineered by George Posey, the Posey Tube was the widest in the world and it was built using an innovative method. Most tunnels back then were constructed from a steel shell later filled with concrete. To build the Posey Tube, construction crews floated concrete tunnel pieces on a barge in the estuary to precise locations before sinking and connecting them. Only London, New York, and Philadelphia had large tunnels built this way back then.

The portals were designed by architect Henry Meyers, who’s known for designing Highland Hospital, the Veterans Memorial Building, and the Caldecott Tunnel as well. The quintessential Art Deco Oakland portal structure “was kind of an influencer of this area,” said Levy, inspiring stylish modernist buildings to be constructed nearby.

I don't think there are many of the stylish modernist buildings left.

Sadly, there are no pictures from the control center part of the tunnel infrastructure ("Caltrans did not allow us to take photos inside the portal").

The Oaklandside article now becomes the second most famous article about Alameda's tunnels.

Thursday, July 25, 2024

I kept meaning to write about my trip to Las Vegas ...

...

But I've been busy and yada yada yada.

Anyway, I feel bad that I didn't write about the trip, because it was actually really interesting, and I had a great time.

It's so hot in Las Vegas at the end of May that the golf courses won't give out any tee times after 10 AM. People start their rounds when it's barely light, to try to finish when the temps are still in the double digits.

Indoors, however, Las Vegas has no seasons. It doesn't even have the diurnal patterns of night and day. People have remarked for decades at how the inside of casinos never have clocks, nor windows, nor any other way for you to tell whether you should be ordering omelettes or steak dinners. Just stay and play, 24 hours a day!

But yes, I went to Las Vegas, although specifically I went to the Sphere, partly because I wanted to see what the Sphere was like, but mostly because the Grateful Dead were playing.

And I'd write more about that experience, but as it turns out Nick Paumgarten has done it for me (paywall warning): Reckoning with the Dead at the Sphere.

Paumgarten and I differ in a few of the details, but for the most part he nails the scene.

Generally speaking, it was not a young crowd, or a particularly crunchy one. I saw more canes than dreadlocks. The people skewed middle-aged and heavyset, sporting an infinite array of merch, predominantly store-bought and Sphere-specific, as opposed to the D.I.Y. parking-lot goods of yore. But there were young people, too—converts, families. The crowd, overwhelmingly white, was evidently prosperous, no surprise when you consider the cost of the travel, lodging (presumably no one was pitching a tent on the Strip), and tickets, whose face value, given the fees and so-called dynamic pricing, runs from two hundred dollars to seven hundred dollars. People seemed more weary and dazed than elated, as though overwhelmed by the sensory experience, the scale of the place, and the distance of the walk along the endless faux-palatial hallways that passed from the Sphere back to the Venetian.

Paumgarten gets lost for a while, for instance in a long and bizarre rant about people in the audience talking during the Drums segment -- what the heck is wrong with you, Paumgarten?

And he wanders around in the article for way too many column-inches about his trip to the Experience, a quasi-museum of the Dead set up in the adjacent casino. On our trip, we didn't even bother with the Experience, and after reading Paumgarten's experience in the Experience, I don't regret our decision for an instant.

But with this observation, Paumgarten sums it up far better than I could possibly do:

The Sphere program wasn’t just a concert. It was a show, in the Vegas sense, with a concept, a narrative, and a retrospective intention. It called attention to itself. It wasn’t the Dead, or even an adulteration of the Dead, so much as a presentation about the Dead, confusingly featuring a couple of its survivors. It brought to mind a Civil War reënactment with a few Vicksburg veterans thrown in for authenticity. Or “Beatlemania,” featuring Ringo.

Yes, exactly.

But the beer was cold and the seats were comfortable and the sound system was spectacular and the four-hour-long video on the ten-story-tall screen was at least somewhat interesting and fun.

And it was a Dead show, so I'm glad I went.